After taking care of the morning's business, we were off to White Bay on Jost Van Dyke, the reputedly gorgeous strand which had, until this year, been off-limits to bareboaters because of the unmarked protecting reef. With only two openings in the reef, the charter companies concluded that it was simply too risky to let sailors lacking local knowledge attempt it. But now, one of the openings is marked and we were on our way.
We sailed downwind from Little Harbour, and just as we reached the opening of the reef, a huge squall overtook us. Rather than risk it, we dropped the sails and motored into the wind until the storm passed, and then carefully made our way inside the reef, choosing a spot between the reef and the beach, near the rock outcropping which divides the beach in half, in barely enough water to keep from nudging the bottom. After a few attempts, we successfully anchored. Jodi and I went ashore right away, and the others went snorkeling near the reef.
What can be said about one of the loveliest beaches ANYWHERE? White, silky sands bordering clear turquoise waters, with gentle waves lapping ashore. The beach is bordered by lush palm and sea grape trees, with hammocks strung beneath them, with a beach bar here and there. The main attraction of this quiet beach is The Soggy Dollar Bar, so named because there is no dock and sailors must wade ashore, resulting in sopping bills, all of which are still legal tender.
The beach at White Bay, Jost Van Dyke.
We happily whiled the morning away sipping rum drunks, eating conch fritters, walking the gorgeous beach, playing with the assorted bar games on and around the bar, and chatting with the bartender and the other guests coming from anchored yachts and at least one couple which had come by Hobie cat from St. Thomas!!! Happily, there were no cruise ship daytrippers today. Even more happily, Wendall, the bartender (who, intentionally or not, gave Sue and Jodi and eyeful through the rip in his shorts (and no underwear)) seemed only to be noting every third or fourth drink on our tab. The morning's damage came to about $50; when you consider that each drink is $5, and there were 6 of us drinking straight through the morning, not to mention the conch fritters - well, you do the math!
We returned to Space Dancer for a lunch of pita sandwiches. By this time, we've pretty much concluded that we like White Bay so much, we will spend the night here. As the boys clean up after lunch, the girls jump off the boat into the clear, cool waters and play a little ball. We swam into shore and return to the Soggy Dollar for yet another $50 worth of drinks. While we were waiting for the guys, Rick spotted a motorboat full of idiots who don't know how to read a channel marker get stuck on the reef. Rick took the dink over and pulled them off in exchange for Bud Lights (hardly worth the effort, when we have Carib, Red Stripe and other, better beer on board). We whiled away the rest of the afternoon at the bar and on the beach (which was invaded for a short time by the Sunsail flotilla), and at some point, Rick and Pete set a second anchor to secure us for the night.
Comfy hammocks hung between palm trees on White Bay's beach invite you to linger. Potent drinks at the Soggy Dollar Bar leave Eva, Jodi, Sue, Doug and Cap'n Rick mellow and lazy, helping us decide to spend the day and night here.
As if we didn't have enough Painkillers, back on board, we treated ourselves to Green Flashes and rum punch. Dinner was what Rick and I call "Fish a la Ricky," inspired as it was by a lunch made for us over a coconut husk fire on the beach at Goff's Caye, on the barrier reef of Belize, by our guide Ricky. It is basically fish with tomatoes, onions,
spices, and - in this case, mushrooms - cooked in foil over a grill. Easy and delicious; perfect for life on a boat.
